Living outside of Split certainly has its perks. One of our favorite places to visit has been Trogir. A hidden gem just north of Split on the Adriatic coast.
To get into the old town you must cross a bridge, either in a car or on foot. We always prefer the walk… because the view is just… sensational.
They host an outdoor market most days, and on Sundays, you can expect nearly everything except restaurants and coffee shops to be closed. Previously we ate on the far side of Trogir, next to the marina. However, last Sunday we went to check out a restaurant on the mainland, recommended to us by a friend. And we were not disappointed!
The restaurant we ate at was Coccolo. For a Balkans restaurant, it is on the pricier side – we spent 85 Euros on one steak, lamb chops, two glasses of wine, and a beer. I will say – the quality of the meat was amazing. They had a small range of beef coming from Argentina, Waygu, and Irish meats. The menu itself is quite large and has a variety of the classic selections you will find in the Balkans like:
- Traditional Balkan BBQ
The staff was friendly and attendant, more attendant than I’ve ever seen in a European Restaurant. I think they would like to brand themselves as a fine dining establishment, which was obvious by the table settings, cutlery, plates, and wine selection. Overall, a nice dining experience. They spoke excellent English to boot!
Pro tip: If you want your meat something other than rare/medium rare YOU will need to specify. They did not ask me how I would like it cooked.
Walking Around Trogir:
This is truly a delightful city to just wander around in, just one of the many reasons Trogir is a hidden gem. We took our time walking from the mainland to the small “island”. It doesn’t take more than five minutes to get from the parking (just north) of the market to the entrance of the city. Trogir is quaint, quiet, and filled with history.
Revel in the architecture, the white stone, and the greenery that adds charm to the city. Around every corner, there’s a reason to say “wow”. We’ve been two times during winter and because of the off-season, the village is rather sleepy. We did notice a few tourist groups floating around with tour guides, and I would expect that during the summer Trogir gets a HUGE number of tourists.
Pro tip: some of the cobblestones haven’t been redone in what looks like centuries… and that might be the case. Be careful where you step and take extra caution if the ground is wet. Marble is SLIPPERY when wet.
The Old Fortress:
If you’re looking for a cheap but worthy excursion, I would suggest the old fortress. It cost 12 Kunas (now about 2 Euros) to get in. We scaled the heights of the structure and went all the way to the top. The view alone is well worth the 2 Euros!
I would assume because we did this in November, that during the tourist season, there is more to read about. There were a few areas that looked like they would be normally occupied with history lessons, guides, and possibly reenactments.
We were amongst 5 other people checking out this amazing structure!
St. Lawrence’s Venetian Cathedral:
If you’re a regular European traveler or tourist, you’ve definitely seen your fair share of Catholic churches. While the bell tower & main doors do stand out – it’s not worth the 5 Euro price tag to get in. I was disappointed to see that a great view of the door is blocked by a gate.
The main church door is famous, however. It was sculpted in 1290, and has remained in good form since! We did pay 5 Euros to see the door and the inside of the church. We also scaled the narrow staircase that takes you to a rooftop view and puts you next to the impressive bell tower. In my opinion, going to the fortress will give you better views, and for cheaper.
The square below is quite lively and a great place to soak up some sun and drink coffee. Much like being in a small Italian town, there is SO much architecture to look at. The village has its fair share of ruins, columns, greenery, and cute shops. It’s a great place to sit down and revel at the stone houses built here.
Trogir: The Hidden Gem
This village certainly has a lot of charm. From the views of the marina, the old town, and the walkability – this is a top-notch location to visit if you’re visiting Split. There are buses that run regularly to get from the Split Bus Station to Trogir, too. If you’re on a road trip, this would be a great lunch stop.
You could spend as much as 5-6 hours in Trogir before you’ve blinked, or just swing in for a coffee on your way to one of the larger tourist destinations. You will come to read that I have an affinity for small villages. They’re a much better indicator of culture and are perfect for half-day excursions.
Trogir is a hidden gem. This will be an ongoing series in my blog as I visit and share more villages for you to explore on your trip, too!
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